Missouri Mountain
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• Statistics:
  • Date Hiked:  May 26, 2006
  • Miles Hiked:  9.0
  • Elevation Gain:  4,450'
  • Hiking Partner(s):  None
• Description:
  • As a result of the recent heat wave Colorado's been having, I assumed some couloirs were starting to set up.  I went to Missouri Gulch to see if Missouri Mountain's north face was climbable.  Recent reports had indicted that the approach was primarily snow free and some people were skiing the C Couloir.  Because of reasonably good snow conditions, I ended up climbing the easternmost couloir on Missouri's north face.  Gerry Roach indicates that this "narrow couloir cuts through the steeper northeast face and is a more serious climb."  After coming down the C Couloir, I would tend to agree that it is likely more difficult than it's neighboring couloirs to the west.  The only drawback is that it is probably a couple hundred feet shorter than the C.  So although it is steeper and more fun, it isn't quite as long.
  • I was up at midnight, hiking by 3:15, and climbing by 6:15.  The approach in the dark went quickly as I made my way up Missouri Gulch on a generally snow free trail.  As I entered the upper basin around 12,000' more snow was present; however, it either held my weight or was easily avoidable.  I reached the base of the north face just as the sun was starting to hit the peak.  I cached my approach shoes, trekking poles, iPod, and some water before starting up the couloir.  It starts out fairly steep on the apron and remains consistent until the last hundred feet when it mellows out.  I used my alpine axe and a second tool during the climb primarily in the low dagger position with the pick forward.  The top of the couloir ends at the same location as the couloir just to the west about 100' below Missouri's east ridge.
  • From the top of the couloir, there is a short scramble to the ridge and summit.  After my summit time, I dropped into the C Couloir and glissaded almost entirely all the way to my cache.  It took me 1.5 hours to climb from my gear to the summit and it only took me 10 minutes to get from the summit back down.  Although much warmer than the approach, the hike out was uneventful.  I didn't see anyone else all day.  My only recommendation for this hike would be to hit it early.  Even after a short period of time with sunlight, the snow seemed to soften quickly.
• Maps:
  • Click here to view a 2D map of the area where this hike is located.
• Photographs:
  • The north face of Missouri Mountain with it's various couloirs.  The "East Couloir" is on the left and the C Couloir is on the right.
  • The entrance to the three western couloirs from approximately 12,700'.
  • Looking up the East Couloir from the apron.
  • Entering the couloir above the apron.  I generally climbed on the left side which was more protected from the sun.
  • Further into the couloir.  Without other climbers in the photos for perspective, it's hard to judge degree.  I didn't think my photos made the angle look very steep at all.  Maybe it wasn't.
  • Looking down the couloir about half way up.
  • Looking up the couloir about half way up.
  • Looking down the couloir approximately three quarters of the way up.
  • Looking up the couloir approximately three quarters of the way up.
  • The final scramble on the east ridge to the summit from the top of the couloir.
  • A poor photo of Belford and Oxford with bad lighting.
  • The approach up Missouri Gulch.
  • The three west couloirs from their base after I glissaded down.
  • Avalanche debris I noticed on my hike out.

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